Basic Itinerary

Day 1:
Flight to Las Vegas  •  Fremont Street Experience

Day 2:
Las Vegas to Death Valley  •  Dante's View  •  Zabriskie Point  •  Wild coyote  •  Mesquite Sand Dunes  

Day 3:
Death Valley to Las Vegas  •  Furnace Creek Ranch  •  Zabriskie Point  •  Golden Canyon trail • Badwater  •  Devil's Golf Course  •  Artist's Palate

Day 4:
Las Vegas  •  Shoppes at the Forum  •  Caesar's Palace  •  Wynn  •  Venetian  •  Titanic exhibit at Luxor  •  Driving down the Strip  •  Fountains at Bellagio  •  Volcano at Mirage

Day 5:
Las Vegas to Zion  •  Valley of Fire  •  Fire Wave trail  •  Watchman

Day 6:
Zion to Bryce  •  Riverwalk trail  •  Emerald Pools trail  •  Kayenta trail  •  Checkerboard Mesa  •  Inspiration Point  •  Sunset Point

Day 7:
Bryce to Page  •  Sunrise Point  •  Queen's Garden trail   •  Horseshoe Bend  •  Glen Canyon Dam  •  Lake Powell Wahweap Overlook  •  Coves Area

Day 8:
Page to Grand Canyon  •  Antelope Canyon  •  Lees Ferry  •  Navajo Bridge  •  Wild Condors  •  Watchtower

Day 9:
Grand Canyon to Las Vegas  •  Mather Point  •  Maricopa Point  •  Powell Point  •  Hermit's Rest  •  Tarantula  •  Seligman  •  Luxor  •  New York, New York

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Bonus: Backseat Outtakes I:
Extra pictures from my parents: Day 1 - 4

Bonus: Backseat Outtakes II:
Extra pictures from my parents: Day 5 - 9

Day 1: Baltimore to Las Vegas

Sunday, October 19, 2014

So, this trip is a little departure from the usual in that my parents are along for the ride. They have visited the East Coast several times over the years and by their own admission are "perfectly happy to sit on the deck and watch the deer in the yard," but my relentless begging to expand their American horizons has finally paid off; we are flying out to Vegas! 

The trip is off to a hectic start; the day before we are to fly out I ran the Baltimore marathon, only to find out my horse had an upset stomach, so between going back and forth to the barn and picking up my parents from the airport there was very little time to get ready.

Yep, I am one of those freakishly happy runners!

Pony is doing much better the next morning and we take my parents to Ross, DSW and REI for some much needed shopping. Everything gets quickly converted into euros, followed by a “Maar dat is toch niet te geloven?!” (But that's unbelievable!)

Oh, to be a European shopper at an American discount store!

We never did find the hiking boots we had set out to find, but on the plus side they ended up with several bags of clothes and sneakers. 

Sandy whips up yummy baked turkey & mozzarella sandwiches when we get back and then I head back to the barn for a final check up, while my parents hang out ... where else? On the deck watching the deer.

I make it back home just in time for us to have an early pre-flight dinner at Wegmans, my favorite grocery store. They have a huge buffet with lots of different things to choose from like Asian, soups, American, organic salad bar, hot vegetables, Mexican, fruit ... there's something for everyone. 

Getting to the airport and check-in goes very smoothly and we are all ready for our in-flight nap, except there’s a screaming toddler sitting across the aisle from us, taking great pleasure in slamming her tray table against the seat in front of her over and over again, while her mother looks on dispassionately. Eventually she stops screaming and I think everyone drifted off to sleep for some time.  I myself wasn’t so lucky … I did, however, make quite a dent in Wild by Cheryl Strayed.

Well, we are certainly not in Baltimore anymore! Even the airport has slots.  

It’s nice and warm when we step outside. The first rental shuttle drives off just as we get there, but a second bus arrives before too long and we manage to beat everyone to the Budget counter where a friendly woman gets us checked in without really pushing for unnecessary upgrades.

My parents are taken aback by the substantial Ford Explorer that awaits us, but once they settle into the spacious backseat they are quite pleased. 

Either Google maps steers us wrong, or there is some operator error (me? impossible!) but it takes a few tries before we find the US15.

I point out some of the trademark Vegas hotels like the Luxor, Excalibur, Paris, even the Trump we’ll be staying at later during the trip and that’s enough to make even the weariest of travelers perk up a little. 

Since we only need a place to crash before heading out tomorrow morning, we decided to save some money and stay near the Fremont Street Experience. Thanks to Hotwire we got a great deal on two rooms at the Downtown Grand.

Cool lobby

Our rooms

It's late and feels even later due to jet lag, but we can't resist the lure of nearby Fremont Street. A live band is playing center stage making it almost impossible to hear one another, but from the scantily clad woman dancing on a table outside of the casino, to the horned man sprouting white feathered wings and the Marilyn Monroe impersonator there is more than enough for the eye to see. Overhead zip-liners zoom past against the backdrop of the giant screen as the casino lights twinkle all around us. We might be tired, but Vegas never sleeps!

We spend some time watching the airbrush artists at work (slow and not as talented as the ones we’ve seen in other cities in my opinion) and walk towards the Plaza, along the way spotting an obese man sporting an itsy bitsy yellow bikini with matching bunny bottom, a transformer, a Halloween ghoul, a couple of strategically body-painted topless girls and probably some other things my mind has blocked out.

They’ve made some changes to the Fremont Street experience since we were last there, most notably the addition of a zip line running the length of the concourse that looks awesome! Next time I am so doing that!

There’s an ABC store near the end and I’m both elated to be there because it reminds me of Hawaii and also sad because it’s NOT Hawaii. They do, however, have my beloved Maui caramacs (macadamia nuts covered with caramel and chocolate). 

My dad looks like he’s about to fall asleep so we head back to the hotel for some much need rest.

Bikes at the Hogs & Heifers Saloon across from the hotel 

Tomorrow we hit the road!

♥

Dinner: Wegmans
Hotel: Downtown Grand Hotel & Casino

Day 2 - Las Vegas to Death Valley

Monday, October 20, 2014

Our first full day in the Southwest is here!

We'll start off with this cool painting in the lobby of the hotel

Moon over Marine by Sush Machida

Morning means a more sedate Fremont Street, but even so the casinos are in full swing with die-hard gamblers trying their luck. I know this not because we went gambling, but because we had to make our way through a maze of blinking, ding-ding-dinging slots machines before getting to the all-you-can-eat Paradise buffet. It's nothing special, but for $7.99 incl. drinks it's a pretty good deal.

After warning my parents that we probably won't have lunch later, we delve into the food. First up for me is a made-to-order omelet with bacon, ham & olives. Wow, it’s so good I end up having another omelet later, but not before having pancakes, a biscuit, sausage, bacon strips, and a few other breakfast staples. It’s a miracle I don’t waddle on my way out the door.

Look, their outfits match the dice!

We drop off the keys and wait quite a while for the valet to bring the car around, then tinker with the GPS again, before finally giving up and using Google Maps as an actual map.

In need of essentials we stop by Walmart – an experience every tourist should experience at least once (although sadly we did not spot any “People of Walmart” while there). Still, the sheer size of the store and its affordable prices are enough to make it a hit with my parents.

We hit traffic as soon as we exit the shopping complex, but after a short detour we are back en route to Death Valley and I tell my parents this would be a good time to test the new pillows we just bought and take a nap, but they are so exited they are practically plastered against the windows. Rte 190 is a somewhat nondescript road on the way to Death Valley – the fastest, not the most scenic – yet already they are snapping pictures left and right.

No one has slept a wink when we arrive at the Death Valley welcome sign. My grandmother got her picture taking here many decades ago so I thought it would it be cool to recreate that and I set about setting up the tripod only to find my parents have clambered part way up the mountain investigating the soil and looking at the rocks. When I finally convince them not to move for a minute they are shocked to hear “the sound of silence,” one of my favorite things about Death Valley.

I manage to get everyone wrangled together for a quick picture.

Our first stop is one of the few places Sandy and I haven’t had a chance to visit yet on our earlier trips to Death Valley: Dante’s View – and overlook over the valley below from 5000+ ft above sea level.

We had worried about the drive up the mountain, but we needn't have: there are guardrails and save for the few sharp turns near the top it's an easy drive.

We go for a short walk along the mountain ridge.

The view over the valley is amazing 

Quick picture stop of a wash near Twenty Mule Canyon. 

My favorite area, Zabriskie Point, is in need of restoration and closed starting October 1^st, but when we get closer I note a surprising amount of cars in the parking lot ... 

Woohoo! The restoration has been pushed back to December 1^st!

Chain link fences block access to the rock ledge surrounding the viewing platform, but they are low enough to allow for picture taking. I am so excited! 

Looks like they are enjoying themselves. 

We have just missed the last movie of the day when we reach the visitors center, but at least we get to see some of the exhibits and pick up a park map. Better yet, there’s a coyote scrounging around for food in the space behind the visitors center.

She looks at me cautiously as I approach then goes back to eating whatever she’s snacking on in the grass. 




Looks like it's snarling in the first of the three pictures above, doesn't it? It was actually a lucky shot of it chewing on something. 

The last two were too cute to shrink down

My little buddy and I

We opt to drive past our hotel for the night so we can catch the sunset at the Mesquite Sand Dunes. It’s a race against time, but we reach the dunes with just enough time for some pictures.

The sand near the parking lot has been disturbed by thousands of footprint, but after slogging across a few dunes the wind's shaping of the dunes becomes more and more pronounced. Ideally, I would have trekked even deeper into the dunes, but there just wasn't enough daylight left.

The dried mud flats are fascinating as always

Can't resist climbing this little tree

The sunset is beautiful and we stop the car several times on the way back to take pictures.

Our cabins at the Furnace Creek Inn turn out to be in a duplex so that’s really cool. They are small, but cozy and very clean.

After picking up some beverages from the noisy Saloon my parents join us for dinner at the Forty Niner Cafe where we enjoy meatloaf (my mother), fish and chips (my dad), linguine (Sandy) and a Caesar salad (me). It’s simple food, but well prepared – although I would have liked my salad even better if the grilled chicken had been warm.

Back in the room Sandy & I change into our bathing suits for a quick swim at the spring-fed warm water pool, while my parents relax in the rocking chair in front of the cabin.

The warm pool feels fantastic on my sore post-race muscles. It’s nice to get out and enjoy the cool night's air, then quickly dive back into the warm water. My favorite thing though is to just float on my back and watch the brilliant starry sky overhead. 

We forgot to bring our towels and the breeze sends goose bumps racing across my arms but the humidity is so low that my arms are almost dry when we get back to our cabin a couple of minutes later.

♥

Breakfast: Paradise buffet at the Fremont Hotel
Lunch: fruit and granola bars
Dinner: 49'er Café
Hotel: Furnace Creek Ranch cabins

Day 3: Death Valley to Las Vegas

Tuesday, October 21, 2014

Welcome to Furnace Creek Ranch!

After another good night’s sleep my body has adjusted to Pacific Standard Time and I wake up thirty minutes before the alarm is set to go off at 0730. My parents are one step ahead and already sitting in their rocking chairs out front.

Our cute duplex cabin

First order of the day is to check out the general store and pick up some fruit and snacks for lunch.

Inviting patio in front of the general store

Breakfast options are limited: a la carte at the Forty Niner or buffet style at the Wrangler. My parents aren’t super hungry so we decide on the Forty Niner where my mother orders an omelet, Sandy a pancake combo and my dad and I order the Miner’s Special (2 eggs, hash browns, toast and bacon). 

What better way to start the day than with a return visit to Zabriskie’s Point in the early morning light!

My mother loves the hat she bought at REI ... doesn't she look the part?!

Whattaya see, Dad?

Only one of the most beautiful spots on the planet obviously!  

Even though it's late October, Death Valley temperatures still frequently top 90 degrees (32C) so morning is the perfect time for a hike. Luckily, it isn't as hot as yesterday and there's a bit of a breeze too.

The Golden Canyon trail is one of your best bets for easy hiking in Death Valley.

We don’t follow the trail all the way to the end, but close enough for me to scramble up one of the hills for a better view of Red Cathedral.

Looking back towards the salt flats

I'll admit, picking my way up and down the slope partially covered by a thin layer of gravel was almost as rewarding as the views. The rest of the gang has jumped at the chance to catch their breath and hydrate in the shade before we turn back around.

Ooh it feels good to get back in the air-conditioned car! 

Badwater, located 282ft below sea level, is the lowest place in all of North America. A small sign on the cliffs behind the parking lot marks sea level.

View from the parking lot

 
Due to its unique geographical features Badwater Basin is one of the hottest places on earth and holds the all-time record for the highest temperature ever at 134 degrees (56.7C).

The walkway helps protect the fragile ecosystem that is home to the rare Badwater Snail, which we have still failed to spot on any of our trips here.

Amargosa Mountain range reflecting in the shallow pool.

The walkway leads onto this densely packed salt 

It pays off to walk a little ways down to appreciate the geometrical designs in the salt.

Salt "snow" blanketing the ground.

 Close-up of the salt crystals

Next up, the Devil’s Golf Course, a sea of jagged salt deposits that stretch as far as the eye can see in every direction you look.

 

What's even more impressive is what rests below the surface; studies suggest that the salt beds might be 9,000ft (2700m) deep in some places!

Couple of black & white shots

Beautifully patterned grasshopper

The two artists in the family are very excited to explore Artist’s Drive – a one-way stretch of road that passes by a collection of colorful rocks, also known as the Artist’s Palette.

Winding road

Less vibrant than I remembered. I'm sure this depends largely on the time of day as full sunlight tends to wash out some of the color.

We had an "Oh crap!" moment while repacking our bags this morning, when we couldn't find out brand new National Park pass anywhere. I remember holding it right before I saw the coyote, so it wouldn't surprise me if I dropped it in my excitement. 

To my relief it’s waiting for us at the desk when we return to the visitor’s center. The ranger is excited too; she says no one has ever come back for a lost pass before and that she was going to shred it by the end of the day.  

We look at the educational displays, while waiting for the movie to start; as usual, it's a beautiful movie with lots of info about the park's history, flora & fauna. I love our National Parks!!

When the movie is done there’s just enough time for one more quick stop: the Borax museum. It’s located on the property of the Furnace Creek Ranch and you’re free to wander around the mining equipment displayed outside.

The 60 ton Baldwin 280 locomotive used from 1916 to 1931 to transport borate ore.

 

I thought for sure my parents would take a nap on the way home giving that they had already seen the landscape on the way in, but they are still wide awake and enjoying “seeing everything from the other side.”

About halfway, in Pahrump, we get off the highway after I spot a Sonic, but after some back and forth decide against having dinner there. Sandy has parked a bit crooked and I can't get in from my side, but everyone else is already in so I tell them to meet me at Walmart on the far end of the parking lot ... except no hears me! So while they are searching the grounds of Sonic looking for me, I hang out on the stoop in front of Walmart in my smelly hiking outfit wondering if they left for Vegas without me ... today, I am People of Walmart! 

Finally, on my umpteenth call they hear Sandy's phone ringing and we reunite to do some more shopping at Walmart. Flip flops for $3.47. Can’t beat that!

Another pastel sunset 

Cool back-lit picture of a metal horse sculpture at the gas station

Thanks to a great win on Priceline our home for the next two nights is the uber-luxurious Trump Hotel. 

We tumble out of our dusty car amidst a throng of people dressed to the nines, but the valet doesn't bat an eye and wastes no time loading up our luggage.

Ooh-la-lobby!

It’s when we get to the check-in desk that Sandy realizes her wallet and ID are likely still in the car. One of the valets takes Sandy up to the car, where she promptly finds her wallet in the backpack she has had with her the whole time. Ha ha!

Unfortunately, since the other room is under my name they need my ID as well and that is definitely in the suitcase with the bellhop. 

After we've checked into the first room we ride the elevator up to the 31^st floor where a beautiful King suite awaits, complete with queen sleeper sofa, kitchen and a bathroom big enough to host a party. My parents are VERY impressed! 

After we are reunited with our luggage and my ID, Sandy & I zoom back down the blazing fast elevator to get the second room set up. I thought they would assign us to the room next door since they share a common entryway, but unfortunately it's already taken. After doing my best puppy eyes impression they are able to room us right across the hall in a luxurious two queen suite. 

It's not quite as nice as the other room, but it has better view of the Strip. My parents are so excited to come check out the view that they end up locking themselves out of their room! The service is fantastic: one quick call and a smiling bellboy appears to let them back in.

Tired we quickly change into some long pants and walk amidst all the glittering lights to Treasure Island for their dinner buffet.  I loved the Buffet at TI the first time we went to Vegas, but wasn't impressed the second time we went; I'm happy to report it's back to being great.

My parents don’t eat much, but Sandy and I will not let opportunity go to waste and gorge ourselves on plate after plate of deliciousness. Some of my favorites were the made-to-order linguine with pesto shrimp and a made-to-order spinach salad with bacon, Parmesan, fresh mozzarella, egg and a mountain of avocado.

Pirate ship outside of Treasure Island, once the set of the now defunct Sirens of TI.

My mother asks if we want to go for a walk along the Strip after dinner, but Sandy and I are exhausted so in the end we all just head back to the hotel. Hopefully we’ll have a chance to do some exploring tomorrow!

♥

Breakfast: 49'er Café 
Lunch: banana, pound cake, caramacs and other junk
Dinner: The Buffet at TI (Treasure Island)
Hotel: Trump International Hotel